How to Sew a Blind Hem by Hand on Trousers and Skirts

Your trouser hem has dropped, or a new skirt is two inches too long, and a machine hem would leave a hard line of stitching across the front. Learning to sew a blind hem by hand fixes both problems with a needle, a reel of thread and about 30 minutes of your evening.

A blind hem catches only one or two threads of the outer fabric on each stitch, so from the right side you see almost nothing. It is the standard finish on tailored trousers, lined skirts and good curtains, and it is easier than it looks once you understand what the needle is actually doing.

What you need before you start

• A fine hand sewing needle: size 9 or 10 sharps for medium fabrics, or size 10 or 12 betweens if you like a shorter needle
• All purpose polyester thread matched to the fabric, or one shade darker, since lighter thread shows more
• Pins or small clips, a tape measure and chalk or a water soluble marker
• An iron and a pressing cloth
• A thimble if you sew heavy wool or denim

Cut a working length of thread no longer than your forearm, about 45 to 50 cm. Longer threads tangle and wear thin as they pass through the fabric hundreds of times.

Mark and press the hem first

Most bad hems are decided before the first stitch. Put the garment on, wearing the shoes you will wear with it, and have someone pin the new length. For trousers, a common target is the hem just touching the top of the shoe at the front with a slight break. For skirts, measure up from the floor at four points so the hem stays level even if your hips are not.

Take it off and transfer the pin line to a chalk line all the way around. Decide your hem allowance: about 4 cm for trousers and straight skirts, 2 to 2.5 cm for A line or flared skirts, where a deep hem would bunch on the curve. Trim the excess, then finish the raw edge with a zigzag, an overlocker or pinking shears so it will not fray inside.

Fold up along the chalk line and press. Then fold the finished edge back toward the right side by about 6 mm, so the top of the hem allowance sits just below a soft fold. Press lightly. That small fold back is the secret to the whole technique.

How to sew a blind hem stitch by stitch

1. Anchor the thread. Knot the end and bring the needle up through the hem allowance only, just below the finished edge, so the knot sits hidden inside.
2. Catch the garment. Move the needle about 6 to 8 mm to the left and pick up one or two threads of the main fabric, right at the fold. You should barely see the needle tip. This is the stitch that shows on the outside, so keep it tiny.
3. Catch the hem allowance. Move another 6 to 8 mm along and take a small stitch through the hem allowance only, a few millimetres below its edge.
4. Repeat. Alternate between a tiny bite of garment and a slightly larger bite of hem allowance, working right to left if you are right handed.
5. Keep the tension loose. Draw the thread through until it lies flat, then stop. If you pull hard you will see a row of small dimples on the right side.
6. Secure the end. Make two small backstitches in the hem allowance, pass the needle under the hem for 2 cm and cut the tail.

When you unfold the hem edge back to its natural position, the stitches disappear between the two layers. That is why it is called blind.

Corners, seams and slits

At a side seam, pass the needle through the seam allowance rather than the outer fabric. It gives a strong anchor point with zero visibility. At a skirt vent or slit, stop the blind stitch 1 cm before the opening and switch to a slip stitch along the folded edge.

Machine blind hem or hand sewing

Many modern machines have a blind hem foot and a dedicated stitch, and for long straight hems on curtains or plain cotton it is a fair choice. A 3 metre curtain hem might take 10 minutes by machine against an hour by hand.

The trade off shows on lightweight and drapey fabrics. The machine catches a slightly larger bite each time and tends to leave a faint row of pinpricks or pulls, especially on crepe, viscose and silk. On a fine wool trouser, hand stitching looks noticeably cleaner. If your machine blind hem keeps puckering, read why a sewing machine tension problem is rarely the machine before blaming the stitch itself.

The advice I would ignore: use the tiniest stitches possible

You will often hear that the closer together your stitches, the better the hem. I disagree. Packing stitches every 3 mm takes twice as long, puts more thread through the visible side, and creates more chances for dimples. On most garments a spacing of 6 to 10 mm holds perfectly well and looks cleaner.

What actually makes a blind hem invisible is the size of the bite into the garment, not the number of bites. One or two threads per catch, loose tension and good pressing matter far more than spacing. The only time I go tighter is on a child's garment or anything that gets dragged along the floor, where 5 mm spacing helps the hem survive rough wear.

Pressing and fixing common problems

Press the finished hem from the inside with a pressing cloth, using steam and a lifting motion rather than sliding the iron. Sliding stretches the edge and can make a curved hem ripple. Let it cool flat before you hang the garment.

• Visible dimples: the thread is too tight or the bites are too big. Snip a few stitches, loosen and redo that section.
• Hem rippling on a curve: the allowance is too deep. Trim it to 1.5 to 2 cm and ease in the fullness with a running stitch before hemming.
• Thread showing as a dot: switch to a thread one shade darker, or use a single strand of embroidery floss for a closer colour match.

The same light touch applies to other invisible repairs. If you enjoy this kind of work, our guide to mending a garment so the repair does not show uses many of the same habits.

Frequently asked questions

What is the difference between a blind hem and a slip stitch?

A blind hem stitch is worked just under a folded back edge, so the thread hides between the layers. A slip stitch runs through the fold itself and is often used for closing linings or finishing vents. Both are nearly invisible, but the blind hem holds better on longer garment hems.

How long does it take to hand sew a blind hem?

For a pair of trousers, plan about 30 to 45 minutes including marking and pressing. A full circle skirt may take two hours because of its length and curve. You will get faster after the first garment once the rhythm feels natural.

Can you blind hem stretchy fabric by hand?

Yes, but keep the stitches slightly looser than usual and avoid pulling the thread taut. A herringbone or catch stitch is often better on knits because its zigzag path gives with the fabric. Test on a scrap first to check it stretches without popping.